Best Ryokans in Shikoku: The Pilgrimage Island

Shikoku is Japan's fourth-largest island and its least-visited by international travelers. The 88-temple pilgrimage circuit (o-henro) is world-famous — thousands of white-clad pilgrims walk the full 1,200-kilometer circuit each year, carrying staffs and bamboo hats — but the island's ryokans, onsen, and dramatic landscapes remain largely unknown outside Japan.

That's an opportunity. Shikoku has extraordinary ryokan destinations: Japan's oldest hot spring, the deepest gorge in Japan crossed by vine bridges, a Pacific coastline that produces waves visible from inn windows, and a food culture (Kochi's katsuo tataki, Kagawa's sanuki udon) that makes every kaiseki dinner a regional education.

Shikoku's Four Prefectures — Ryokan Overview

Ehime — Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen

Dogo Onsen (道後温泉) is the centerpiece — Japan's oldest documented hot spring, dating to at least the 8th century. The 1894 Dogo Onsen Honkan building, an ornate three-story wooden structure with a phoenix on the roof, is so architecturally striking that it was the most likely inspiration for the bathhouse in Spirited Away (Studio Ghibli director Hayao Miyazaki visited before production).

The main building (Honkan) reopened after extensive renovations in 2024. Three sections operate: Kami no Yu (casual bathing, ¥700), Tama no Yu (tatami rest room included, ¥1,250), and Yushinden (private imperial bath viewing, not for bathing). The hot spring water is sodium bicarbonate — clear, mildly alkaline, skin-softening.

Ryokans in Matsuyama and the Dogo Onsen district range from budget guesthouses (¥8,000/person) to mid-range inns with kaiseki and private bath access (¥20,000–35,000/person).

Matsuyama Castle: A fully intact mountain-top castle (accessible by ropeway or 20-minute walk) with panoramic views of Matsuyama city and the Seto Inland Sea. The combination of castle visit + Dogo Onsen + ryokan dinner makes Matsuyama a strong 2-night stop.

→ Dogo Onsen Ryokan Guide

Tokushima — Iya Valley Gorges

The Iya Valley (Iya-kei) cuts through the interior of Tokushima Prefecture — a deep forested gorge accessible via narrow mountain roads and three traditional vine bridges (kazurabashi) woven from mountain vines and rebuilt every three years.

Ryokans in the Iya Valley are dramatically situated — some hang over the gorge, reached by private funicular; others are in converted farmhouses on the valley floor. The combination of complete isolation, river sound, and mountain air makes this one of Japan's most distinctive ryokan environments.

The valley is deliberately difficult to access — no direct train, mountain bus from Oboke Station, or rental car via narrow mountain roads. That difficulty keeps it quiet.

Awa Odori: Tokushima city's August festival (12–15 August) is one of Japan's best — see the summer festivals article for details.

Kochi — Pacific Coast and Bonito Country

Kochi Prefecture faces the Pacific Ocean directly — no inland sea, just open Pacific. The waves are some of the largest on the Japanese coast, the coastline is dramatic, and the regional food culture centers on katsuo no tataki: skipjack tuna seared over a straw fire, sliced thick, and served with ginger, garlic, and ponzu.

Ryokans in Kochi are primarily in Kochi city (the castle town) and along the Ashizuri Peninsula coast. Simpler and less polished than Dogo or Iya Valley inns, but authentic and excellent value.

Katsurahama Beach (just south of Kochi city) has a ryokan strip facing the Pacific — unusual in Japan, where ocean views from ryokan windows are less common than mountain or garden views.

Kagawa — Udon and Naoshima

Kagawa is Japan's smallest prefecture — a narrow strip facing the Seto Inland Sea, famous for sanuki udon (the definitive Japanese noodle, eaten from self-serve restaurants at ¥100–500 per bowl) and for the Naoshima Art Island cluster.

Ryokans in Takamatsu (Kagawa's capital) make a good base for day-trips to Naoshima, Teshima, and Inujima — small islands in the Inland Sea turned into contemporary art destinations with permanent Tadao Ando architecture installations. Stay in Takamatsu, island-hop by ferry during the day.

Shikoku Ryokan Price Guide

Area	Price per person/night	Notes
Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama	¥12,000–30,000	Good range; book ahead in tourist season
Iya Valley	¥18,000–45,000	Premium for remote access and dramatic setting
Kochi coast	¥8,000–18,000	Good value; simpler properties
Takamatsu / Kagawa	¥10,000–20,000	City and coastal options

Getting Around Shikoku

Rail: JR Shikoku Lines cover the main cities (Takamatsu, Matsuyama, Kochi, Tokushima) — all covered by JR Pass. The Shimanto River Railway in western Kochi is a short scenic line worth riding.

Car rental: Essential for the Iya Valley and most of the Pacific coast. Rent at Matsuyama, Takamatsu, or Kochi airports or central stations.

Cycling: The Shimanami Kaido cycling route between Onomichi (Hiroshima) and Imabari (Ehime) is one of Japan's iconic cycling experiences — 70km over six islands, with rental bikes at both ends and at each island along the route.

Combining Shikoku with a Broader Itinerary

Hiroshima → Shikoku (via Shimanami Kaido or ferry): Natural connection — the Onomichi to Imabari cycling route or direct ferry from Hiroshima Port to Matsuyama (70 min high-speed ferry).

Osaka/Kyoto → Takamatsu (by Shinkansen to Okayama, then Marine Liner): 2 hours 20 minutes total from Osaka. A straightforward extension of a Kansai itinerary.

Shikoku → Kyushu (Kochi to Beppu by ferry): Night ferry from Kochi to Beppu on Sunflower Ferry — an excellent way to cross to Kyushu without backtracking through Osaka.

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Ready to explore Shikoku? Browse our selections:

→ Best Ryokans in Dogo Onsen → Dogo Onsen Ryokan Guide → Japan Rail Pass Ryokan Guide → Best Ryokans in Hiroshima