Best Ryokans in Wakayama: Koyasan, Shirahama, and the Kumano Kodo

Wakayama Prefecture occupies the southern tip of the Kii Peninsula — a mountainous, heavily forested region jutting into the Pacific south of Osaka. What makes it remarkable as a travel destination is the breadth of experiences within a relatively small area: Buddhist mountain retreat, ancient coastal hot spring, and Japan's most historically significant pilgrimage trail, all accessible within a few hours of each other.

Koyasan (高野山) — Temple Lodgings

Koyasan is one of Japan's most sacred places — a mountain town established in 816 CE by the monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi) as the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism. Today, 52 of the mountain's temples offer overnight accommodation in shukubo (temple lodgings).

What a Koyasan stay is like: Check in at the temple reception. A monk shows you to your tatami room, which may overlook a Zen rock garden. At dusk, monks perform evening prayers in the main hall — guests are welcome to attend. Dinner is shojin ryori (精進料理) — Buddhist vegetarian cuisine without meat, fish, or strong-smelling vegetables, typically 10–12 courses of seasonal vegetables, tofu, and mountain produce. At 6am, a bell summons guests to morning prayers. Breakfast follows: another vegetarian spread.

Okunoin (奥の院): The vast forest cemetery at the end of the main stone path — 200,000 grave markers of feudal lords, monks, and ordinary people, covered in moss under giant cedar trees. Walking here at night, when the stone lanterns are lit and the forest is silent, is among Japan's most powerful experiences.

Getting there: Nankai Koya Line from Osaka (Namba Station) to Gokurakubashi, then Koyasan Cable Car. About 1 hour 20 minutes from Osaka. Not covered by JR Pass — Nankai is a private railway. Combined cable car + bus pass available.

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Shirahama Onsen (白浜温泉)

Japan's oldest recorded resort, with onsen use documented since 658 CE. Shirahama means "white beach" — Shirahama Beach is one of the few white sand beaches in mainland Japan (the sand was imported from Australia in the 1990s to restore the beach after years of erosion, but the natural setting remains spectacular).

The coastal baths: Several outdoor baths are set directly on the rocky Pacific coastline. Sakino-yu (崎の湯) — Japan's oldest outdoor onsen — is a simple stone-walled bath on a rocky promontory with the ocean visible from the water. At high tide, waves break close enough to spray the bath.

Ryokans: Shirahama has a full range — budget guesthouses on the hill above the beach to large ocean-view resort properties on the cliffs. The coastal cliff positions offer exceptional Pacific views.

Getting there: JR Kisei Line from Osaka (Tennoji Station) to Shirahama, about 2 hours. Covered by JR Pass.

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Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail (熊野古道)

The Kumano Kodo is Japan's most significant pilgrimage route — a network of mountain paths leading to the three Kumano Grand Shrines (Kumano Sanzan) in southern Wakayama. UNESCO listed since 2004, uniquely recognized alongside the Camino de Santiago as the world's only dual-recognized pilgrimage site.

The main routes:

• Nakahechi: Most popular, starting from Tanabe city. 3–5 days walking to Kumano Hongu Taisha. Well-marked, with oji subsidiary shrines at regular intervals.
• Kohechi: Mountain route from Koyasan to Kumano — combining two sacred destinations in a single walk. More challenging; 3–4 days.

Trail-side accommodation: Minka guesthouses and small ryokans dot the Nakahechi route, some dating to the period when they exclusively served pilgrims. The accommodation is simple — tatami rooms, home-cooked meals, often a small family running the whole operation. Book well ahead; capacity is limited.

Getting there for Nakahechi start: JR to Tanabe (Kisei Line from Osaka, 2 hours).

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Nachi Katsuura — Coastal Ryokans

At the base of the Nakahechi route, Nachi Katsuura is a tuna fishing port with excellent ryokans serving raw tuna (maguro) direct from the local auction. The morning tuna auction at the port is viewable by visitors. Nachi Falls (133 meters — Japan's tallest waterfall) and Kumano Nachi Taisha shrine are within walking distance.

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Ready to explore Wakayama?

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